Saturday, March 19, 2011

Le Voltigeur - A Sharp Shot

Like a leaf in the wind I am windswept through the streets of the Marais and go hurtling through the door. Finding myself slightly flustered, yet comfortingly smothered in all the contraire.




Like a summons, I was called to this place on a blustery, March day and my blue lips just could not refuse the golden glow illuminating from within Le Voltigeur.


Adorned with tiny mosaic tiles on the floor, woven cane chairs and antique lamps, I almost found myself searching the space for a crackling fire, marshmallows, wine goblets and big white cosy rug.

Offering peckish patrons peanut filled glasses on arrival, shelves of books (including English), the daily papers and house specialties of hot chocolate and quiche, this is no doubt a romantically cosy little corner.



The staff are very friendly, and offered advice and honest recommendations with as much passion that I am certain the owners must have to keep a very close watch on the staff/quiche love affair.

The actual Voltigeurs were created in 1804 by Emperor Napolean 1 as French Military skirmish units. Their name was derived from their original purpose as a horse mounted skirmish unit (Vaulters). The mounted aspect however, proved unsuccessful on the battlefield, and they were instead trained as elite skirmish sharpshooters.
Located in the heart of the lovely Marais (where food can be overpriced and disappointing), on the corner of one of my favourite shopping streets (American Retro, Zadig & Voltaire, Autour du Monde, MAC to name a few), this little diamond in the rough is a conveniently located must.
Go on, give it a shot.




Le Voltigeur
45 Rue des Francs Bourgeois
Paris, 75004
Metro: Saint Paul

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Gocci di Caffe - Paris Passageway

I came upon Passage Des Panoramas - a cobbled, covered passageway filled with cafes, restaurants and shops a few months ago and almost had forgotten about it when, by chance we stumbled upon it again - strolling the streets one night after Japanese on Rue Ste Anne (The best street for Japanese in Paris, Metro: Pyramides). We vowed to return for dinner at an overflowing wine bar tucked in one of the corners of the Passage.

I returned on Monday to check out the wine bar (Coinstat Vino in the background of the photo) but found it closed on Mondays. Blessing in disguise - as I pondered what else could be enjoyed in this quaint and historic place. I looked up and there it was right in front of me. Im not sure if I noticed the smell first, or the friendly smile of the owner - an Italian man named Antonio. This tiny, almost hole in the wall Italian Cafe was drawing me in.
I was impressed with the coffee and also with the personal nature of the owner. A one man band, he apologised for the lack of desserts on display, explaining that he normally made tiramisu but had overslept this morning and run out of time (after spending the weekend in Brittany and arriving back into Paris at 3am that morning). A very laid back character who chats freely with his seemingly regular stream of customers.

An Australian couple who were regular customers during an extended stay in Paris brought him a kangaroo which he proudly displays on a shelf behind the counter.

The Passage Des Panoramas is the oldest Passage in Paris -constructed on the site of The Montmorency-Luxembourg Private Hotel in 1799-1800. Historically speaking, it was one of the first covered, airy commercial passageways in the world. The so-called precursor to the shopping malls as we now know them.


Gocci di Caffe

25 Passage des Panoramas
Metro(s): Grand Boulevards or Bourse

Sunday, March 6, 2011

La Cafeotheque de Paris

Soothing, slow country tunes play a drastic contrast to the speeding cars hurrying past The Seine outside. As my mind begins to decellerate and tick along to the rancher beats, I am presented with an artistically topped cafe au lait (complete with a petit chocolate and glass of water on the side).



This is the second time I have come to La Cafeotheque. Absolutely nothing to do with the cute Aussie guy who works here, I promise. The freshly ground coffee is creamy, and smooth as silk.
As I entered the Cafe today, there was a commotion going on with the roasting machine. In a very hands on manner, one of the owners was battling to regain control of the unruly, bright yellow contraption, but stopped to smile and usher me past with the assurance "c,est pas grave" (no big deal). After brushing off the remnants of bean particles from my hair, I proceeded through to the cafe.
La Cafeotheque is more than just a standard Cafe - offering barista courses and a small shop where patrons may purchase beans from all over the world (mainly South America and
Africa), jams, chocolate and coffee oil (a nicely presented gift that the owner tells me is great for salads or as a toppi
ng on icecream). The most expensive bean available to buy has been injested, processed and excreted by a special Brazilian bird - Nice!
Styled with a mix of decor including chocolate and dark olive green leather grandpa chairs, and a cow print chaise (my first seating choice but sadly it already was occupied). Randomly, a piano is positioned against the side wall - acting as a bookcase and blending in nicely with the warm timber tones. Loud and colourful South American photographs (for sale for 85 euro) adorn the walls.
Afterwards, cross The Seine via Ile St Louis and on to Rive Gauche, or wander the boutique strewn streets of St Paul Village and then in to the Marais. With the temperature (finally) rising, and the sunshine waking from its winter hibernation, La Cafeoteque is the perfect place for morning tea (small selection of muffins, cakes and quiche) before a pretty Parisian Spring stroll.
La Cafeotheque
52 Rue de L'Hotel de Ville
75004, Paris
Metro: Pont Marie